Showing posts with label French Revolution. Show all posts
Showing posts with label French Revolution. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Trifles and Trinkets and Creative Time-Travel









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In a time of economic depression or recession, the acquisition of small luxury items, and especially those that have absolutely no practical use, may appear insane. Yet, there are those, including myself, who are drawn towards such objects far more when a general air of privation or gloom pervades the atmosphere.

I find that I enjoy catalogues of such items more when I cannot afford them than during periods when I could have bought them. Sometimes, when my physical pain is almost insupportable, I escape it a little by visiting a site that deals in exquisite antiques, cameos or trinket boxes. I love them always, but they acquire more potency in my psyche when they become temporary shields againt pain. And yes, I probably would buy one now if I could!

One of the simplest of declarations made in a poem, and yet one that is so basic that it never becomes outmoded is:

'A thing of beauty is a joy forever.'

Are some of us born with a keen appreciation of beauty and exquisite art or is a matter of education and training? I know that, as a child, I was surrounded by people who possessed a refined sense of artistic appreciation and indeed, was educated to recognise fine china, silver and paintings at a very young age. On our first trip to the Continent, each night, my sister's godfather commanded us to write about one painting or building that was had seen that day. For most children, that would have been onerous enough. He further dictated that we write our impressions in the form of a perfect sonnet, either in the format of Petrarch or Shakespeare. We grumbled but we did not refuse.

When we returned home, looking back upon that trip, I felt we had been in the clutches of an insane old dictatorial man. Much later, I actually was deeply grateful to him for the experience and even the burdens of being forced to write those awful sonnets.

The appreciation of classical poetry is deepened by the act of creating classical verse, however poor the results. The appreciation of art is based partly upon the knowledge of its foundations and the thread that ties it to history. John's favourite painter was Piero della Francesca. His obsession with the artist led me to a personal dislike of Piero, alas, but at the same time, showed me how an entire trip can become more interesting and a richer experience when it has a theme. When I became an adult, in a similar fashion, I made a 'pilgrimage' to every site with some connection to Ludwig II in Bavaria. In France, I followed the steps of Napolean and of Jean Cocteau (not simultaneously).

A theme gives a plot to a journey and can transform it into an interactive novel. Although any exploration of the unknown or strange is fascinating, when it is connected to a specific historical or even fictional character, it becomes even more enjoyable. Furthermore, it gives one the ability to travel through time to some extent. One begins to perceive contemporary objects through the eyes of some one visiting the future. The landscape that would have been contemporary with the subject of the pilgrimage is viewed differently as well. Changing perspective is one of the great secrets of living without ever become bored.

This, however, has little to do with trinkets or trifles except in one small respect. A luxury item, especially one with some history, brings the world into the home in a small way. A Limoges box, for example, can bring the entire history of the Limoges industry in France as well as its significance in the lives of the French Court into the palm of my hand. One admires the intrinsic beauty of the object but beyond that, one feels a sense of continuity with all those who have patronised the art.

19th century British cameos have drawn my interest only in the past couple of years, after a visit to Pompeii, where cameo factories continue to thrive. Like many people, I had disregarded them previously simply as jewelry beloved of old people. After being almost forced to take a tour of one such factory, although I recognised the items produced by that factory as designed primarily for the tourist trade as well as being over-priced, I began to study antique cameos. I realised that they represented the re-flowering of Northern European fascination with the Classics and therefore a synthesis of Victorian romanticism and the Classical world. The use of natural organic materials such as coral, jet and shell infuses them with additional power. A shell, exquisitely carved with the image of a Roman deity using ancient techniques, then set in a precious metal such as gold, combines the power of Classical mythology with natural beauty and often, the aesthetic appeal that a certain degree of artistic excess can generate. The marvelous Etruscan revival combined with Victorian love of intricate design both lend their styles to cameo art of the 19th century.

The cameo shown here is an example of another Victorian tradition in that it holds the hair of a deceased love one. Macabre perhaps, but what makes it particularly interesting is the design that has been created with the hair itself. It has been fashioned into the form of a feather.

Feathers traditionally represent the freedom of the soul liberated from transient flesh and therefore are a symbol of immortalilty. The flight of a bird is a symbol of human longing for the divine. The obverse of this pin depicts a Bacchante, a follower of Dionysus. Dionysus was the central figure in a Roman mystery religion that resembled Christianity in many respects as a god who was sacrificed and then reborn. The Christian communion ritual of bread and wine was part of the Dionysian traditional as well and indeed, Dionysus was considered the original inventor of wine. The Bacchantes were women who threw off the restraints of civilisation to surrender entirely to the god, running through forests and fields in utter abandon and ecstacy. Their rituals were savage, often terrifying and wholly dedicated to the god. In artistic terms, they are symbols of the naked power of Nature, both creative and destructive and entirely potent beyond any shackles that humanity can devise for Her.

The trinket boxes created by Halcyon Days represent a revival of an 18th century art of enamel on copper. The art was revived in the 1970s by Halcyon Days, with the use of the expertise of Bilston & Battersea Enamels. Having proved quite popular with consumers, the art form was embraced by other British firms such as Crummles. While Crummles focused on storybook scenes, Halcyon Days specialised in limited editions for special occasions, historical places and anniversaries. The box shown above was created for the Metropolitan Opera of New York and depicts the swan of Lohengrin. It therefore has particular significance for lovers of the Metropolitan Opera, of Wagner and specifically of Lohengrin. Incidentally, the Swan had great personal significance to Ludwig and the influence of Wagner permeated much of his life.

Swans in ancient Northern mythology were a form taken by the Valkyrie who were known as 'swan-maidens'. They were the agents of Odhinn, his daughters in fact by mortal women, half-human and half-divine, the choosers of the slain, guides to the chosen heroes. In this, they resemble Mercury or Hermes who also guided the souls of the dead on the road to the afterlife.

Trinket boxes have a particular attraction for me, as they originally did have a practical use in the 18th century, holding patches, snuff and other luxury items for the aristocracy. For me, therefore, a small porcelain or enamel trinket box evokes such dashing heroes as the Scarlet Pimpernel. The charm of the Scarlet Pimpernel was the combination of an outward appearance of total insouciance and moral decadance with the reality of secret moral and ethical resolve and honour. One without the other would not have been half as dynamic or attractive. The fact that he could act the role of fop perfectly while dedicating his life to heroic action was what made him irresistable and memorable in my eyes, even if he WAS on the wrong side politically! It was a little difficult to reconcile my love of Napoleon with my admiration for the Scarlet Pimpernel, albeit one could do so by recognising one as historical fact and the other as a delightful fiction.

I never have viewed any object in monetary terms. Collecting to me always was extremely personal and emotional. When I sold dolls, I was rather appalled by the customers who perceived them as investments, and indeed, the collapse of THAT market was inevitable, given the false expectations that expanded it far beyond its natural radius.

To me, a doll was a link with childhood, whether it was my own childhood, my mother's childhood or a great-grandmother's childhood or simply an intellectual and emotional response to something in the actual doll.

There are strict Muslims who refuse to have dolls or plush toys in their homes because they consider them to be 'idols' and therefore prohibited by religion. I always rather liked 'idols'. Indeed, I do not see them as an impediment to spirituality but an offering to the Divine. 'A thing of beauty is a joy forever' once again... Whenever one sees beauty anywhere, whether it is tangible or intangible, a work of art or an extraordinary concept or exquisite phrase, it is a signpost that directs us towards the Divine. One does not worship Idols. They simply exist to remind us of the ultimate Beauty that is a very small part of the Infinite Divine Being.

Limoges Boxes seldom represent 'great art', but they can be exquisite and to me, they resonate with the entire mood of the 18th century and the French Court. It may be slightly contrary of me to admire both the artistic excesses of the Royalist 18th century partrons of the arts and the French Revolution that created Napoleon but I do. Although politically I always have been and continue to be a revolutionary, some of the greatest art exists only through the patronage of a corrupt aristocracy. Through most of history, it has been the rich ordinarily who have possessed the financial means and the freedom to commission art. Sometimes, it is an organised religion or government but the most creative artists may not have flourished without the patronage of individuals who appreciated or shared in their visions.

Does great art trump political or religious principles? That is a question that has filled tomes and fueled controversy since the dawn of civilisation. I firmly believe that it does. Whatever my religious or political beliefs, they never extend to agreement with the destruction of ANY great expression of human creativity in art. Even where it is art that does not resonate with my own soul, I recognise the validity of it and support the demand of the historian to preserve it for the future. It is not creativity alone that gives art its right to be protected from destruction but its place in history.

My grandfather was an artist and I remember, as a child, his tendency to set up little displays that almost resembled temporary shrines. A few objects in a particular configuration would spark his creativity or remind him of some artistic project or goal. My great-aunt was a talented pianist but beyond that, she was one of the most eccentric and spiritually-enlightened individuals it has been my privilege to know. Her house, before she became a victim of senility, was immaculate and every object has its own place and significance. In her dining room were shelves displaying pieces of china that had particular meaning to her, including three miniature teacups. Those teacups fascinated me as a child. I love anything that is smaller than life, anything that points to another magical reality. They could have been fairy cups, used in magical tea parties, or the tea service of the Borrowers or a group of sentient, civilised animals from 'Wind in the Willows' or a tale by Beatrix Potter.

My mother gave me those tiny cups after my great-aunt died. They hold a position of honour in my cabinet. It is only recently that I have recognised how much Aunt Mimi influenced my own character. As children, we are impatient sometimes of the wisdom of the elderly. Even as a child, however, I always felt that the song that Aunt Mimi would write for me on my birthday was one of the best gifts any child could receive. It made me feel loved and important. It made me feel like a Princess to have songs dedicated to me each year.

My great-aunt always lived 'comfortably'. She was not extremely rich but she certainly wanted for nothing. She lived a fairly modest life in her old age, but she lived in the house commissioned and built for her, probably partly to her own design. In other words, she created her own corner in the universe to her precise specifications and then happily occupied it almost to the moment of her death. The greatest tragedy was senility, when the significance of much that had been important to her was lost or flickered only intermittently in her consciousness. Yet, even to the end, she retained the ability to appreciate moments of beauty in the flight of a bird across the garden and the pattern its movements created with surrounding objects. She had an almost Etruscan sensibility where such matters were concerned.
I recall that she loved to make tea 'properly' because of the patterns found in the tea leaves at the bottom of her cup. She 'read' them, but no so much for any ability to predict the future but as transient images with artistic significance. She was a wonderful woman and I miss her greatly sometimes, even though it was extremely frustrating to care for her when senility made her illogical and difficult.

As usual, my thoughts have wandered far from my initial premise but weblogs excuse even extol the values of such wanderings.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

Breakfast at Tiffany's...or not, from a Computer Terminal

The entire subject of 'designer labels' in fashion perhaps should be consigned to a circle of Hell reserved for capitalists and those for whom luxury consumerism is a way of life. When one struggles to meet bills and obtain the very necessities of life, the allure of a scarf by Hermes, a Burberry bag or a bracelet from Tiffany & Co. should be nil. Nonetheless, we sometimes will pursue dreams for loved ones when we no longer would do so for ourselves... In that spirit, I began to look at options where Tiffany's was concerned.

Although half of the mystique of Tiffany's is its 5th Avenue shop in Manhattan, it came as no surprise to discover that Tiffany & Co has a thriving internet site where one can purchase almost every item made under its label. The site is elegant and the items are beautifully displayed. To take the illusion one step further, the prices are the same as they would be in the actual shop. There are no discounts for shopping online. In fact, with very high shipping costs unless the item purchased is over $300.00, the price of shopping online at Tiffany's rather exceeds that of a visit to one of their shops.

The logical next step would be Ebay, where often designer items are sold at greatly reduced prices. Tiffany is one label that is sold ONLY at Tiffany's, however, which means that any items offered as 'New' on Ebay would be suspect. Having expected a fairly straightforward exploration of a few 'gently used' items, I was drawn into a veritable morass of counterfeits.

Counterfeiting, whether of coinage or art, is as old as humanity, but counterfeit items purporting to be made by Tiffany & Co. are more prevalent than most other designers. Even off-Ebay, one need only do an internet search for Tiffany to call up at least half a dozen sites that sell counterfeits while never stating that the items are anything less than genuine.

Here first is a link to the official site for Tiffany & Co. where only the genuine articles are sold obviously:
Welcome to Tiffany & Co.

Here now are some links to sites that offer knock-offs but never actually state as much. None of these are affiliated with the legitimate Tiffany & Co., nor are the items that they sell made by or for Tiffany & Co.:
Tiffany Jewelry

My Tiffany Online

Tiffany Sale

These are only a few of many sites offering 'Tiffany Jewelry' direct to the consumer. If you go to Ebay instead, however, the web of deceit thickens, whether in deliberate misrepresentation or innocent misrepresentation. Although any item sold as 'new' on Ebay definitely is a knock-off, buyers who mistakenly assume that any purported item of jewelry stamped 'Tiffany & Co.' would be a genuine Tiffany article are sadly in error.

With more than half the world existing in adject poverty, struggling for food and shelter, does the question of whether a luxury item is genuine or not matter? It only matters because it deals with the question of honesty and trust. Being interested in a style that looks identical to a genuine Tiffany & Co. piece but is being sold at a fraction of the price is quite different from selling an item that is not genuine to some one who believes it is. There are more complex ethical questions as well. When that item is intended as a gift to some one, is there an onus on the person giving the gift to make it clear whether the item is a genuine designer piece or not? The innocent recipient of a knock-off who later sells it on Ebay as 'genuine' is extending the fraud unwittingly. One may argue that a gift should not be sold, but relationships often go sour and it no longer is considered mandatory to return all expensive gifts when they do.

One of the most famous cases involving counterfeit jewelry and one that played a part in toppling the French monarchy is the 'Affair of the Diamond Necklace' celebrated in novels and films. It began with a genuine valuable diamond necklace commissioned by Louis XV for Madame du Barry and crafted by premier French jewelers Boehmer and Bassenge. Unfortunately, the jewelers were not paid in advance for the commission and the king died before the necklace could be completed and sold to him.

The jewelers were in danger of bankruptcy, as the necklace was worth a 'Queen's ransom'. They decided to try to sell it to the new King for his wife, Marie Antoinette. Marie Antoinette initially declared, however, that she wanted no part of an item originally designed for her father-in-law's Mistress. From this point, the 'affair of the necklace' descended into the murky alleys of political and social scheming... A very clever confidence artist named Jeanne de la Motte, remotely connected to the royal house through marriage with an illegitimate scion of the house of Valois, conceived of a complex plan and executed it. She first ensnared the Cardinal de Rohan in a clandestine bogus relationship with the Queen (played by a prostitute)and then persuaded him that Marie Antoinette had changed her mind and now wanted the extraordinary diamond necklace she publically had refused twice when her husband tried to buy it for her. Rohan was persuaded to act as an intermediary in the transaction, convincing the jewelers that the Queen would pay for the necklace in installments. He then took possession of the diamond necklace and gave it to Jeanne's husband and accomplice, in his supposed role as the Queen's valet. He promptly took the necklace to London, where it was taken to pieces and the diamonds sold individually.

Ultimately, when the jewelers were not paid, the entire sordid affair was made public. Rohan was sent to the Bastille. Jeanne, the prostitute and the man who had forged Marie Antoinette's signature, were convicted and her husband sent to the galleys. In fact, Jeanne de la Motte was able to evade justice to some extent. Her sentence included a public flogging and branding, never carried out and, disguised as a boy, she managed to escape from prison and flee to London where she published her scandalous memoirs. The Cardinal was acquitted by the Parlament de Paris. Vilette, the forger was simply banished.

To add to the high drama of the affair, Cagliostro became implicated. The Count de Cagliostro, aka Joseph Balsamo was one of the most sensational figures in France at the time, as one who dabbled in the 'black arts' and Freemasonry and managing to secure entry into the Knights of Malta as well as appearing at almost every court in Europe. (He finally was arrested by agents of the Inquisition and imprisoned in the Castel Sant'Angelo.) He was one of the most brilliant,enterprising and ruthless men of his time, expert at chemistry, medicine, magic, legerdemain and forgery, inter alia. Incidentally, although he is one of the main characters in Dumas' series and never quite was freed of the taint of the Diamond Necklace scandal, it was one affair in which he actually was innocent in reality.

Although Marie Antoinette was innocent as well and probably had absolutely no knowledge of the frauds perpetrated in her name, as with any scandal involving very public and high-ranking individuals, the masses refused to believe the facts and the affair was very instrumental in fomenting the public disgust with the monarchy that ultimately led to the French Revolution. Alexandre Dumas' series of novels about the Diamond Necklace were among my favourite books as a child.

As some one moreover with a background in Law, the subject of legal misrepresentation always fascinated me and continues to hold an interest. Any one who is expert at misrepresentation is a wordsmith and words always fascinated me as well.

On one of the Tiffany knock-off sites, items are given the following 'guarantees':

'All of our items are 100% sterling made guaranteed. We are a professional jewelry dealer offering all kinds of sterling silver jewelries from Tiffany & Co. at the best prices. One-stop shopping for beautiful Tiffany & Co. necklaces, bracelets, pendants, rings, earrings, accessories, 300+ styles for choice, fantastic gift ideas for wedding and other special moments.
'To retail Tiffany Rings ,Bracelets,Necklaces,and so on, we specially set up retail Tiffany Jewelry website for people all over the world seeking for the most worthy Jewleys.Tiffany Sale is your best Tiffany & Co sliver jewelry and diamonds provider. Our mission is to provide the best Tiffany & Co sliver jewelry products and service to our customers at the lowest prices possible. We have about 200 Tiffany & Co Sliver Jewelry and Diamonds on sale. Tiffany Sale is your tiffany silver jewelry online store.'

Note the misspellings here. Note that the only guarantee is that the items are 100% sterling.

Here is another FAQ from a knock-off site:
'The material used are genuine 925 sterling silver and genuine 18K gold. Our jewelry selection includes necklace, bracelet, ring and earring for today's designer jewelry fashion at discount prices. Our team of buyers search throughout the fashion world to provide you with terrific merchandise and values. You can often find the same items we currently sell on our site in department stores, boutiques, and within the pages of your favorite magazines at full price - yet we offer you much lower prices. Sometimes, we do not purchase directly from the designer; instead we go to reputable resellers for a discount on wholesale prices. This allows us to pass on the savings to you.'

Again, the only guarantee is to the effect that the item is 'genuine 925 sterling silver.' What is particularly interesting about THIS site is the fact that they sell every 'Tiffany' piece with 'Free Tiffany & Co. blue pouch, box and gift bag.
+ Free Silver Polishing Cloth, valued at $8, limited time offer'

From this site, offering discounts on discounts, the 1837 Lock Bracelet and Necklace Set, originally priced $259.00 has been discounted AGAIN to $239.00. At the REAL Tiffany & Co. site, the 1837 Lock Necklace alone costs $375.00 and the matching bracelet costs $265.00, making the total price for the 'set' almost $650.00. Incidentally, a free silver polishing cloth is NOT included with purchases from the official genuine Tiffany site. If, therefore, you see any purported 'authentic' or 'genuine' Tiffany & Co. item/s being offered on Ebay with a silver polishing cloth as well as pouch, box and gift bag, you can bet your boots that it is counterfeit.

When all stamps on the counterfeits match those of the real Tiffany & Co. items, how on earth can one know whether or not an item offered on Ebay or any other site as used is a genuine item FROM Tiffany & Co. is truly genuine? I would imagine that the ONLY easily definable difference is the weight. If a seller attests that he/she has weighed the piece and the weight equals that of the item sold by Tiffany & Co. and further that the item was purchased from a specified Tiffany shop, any 'used' item he/she has for sale probably IS genuine. If, however, the seller directs you to the official Tiffany site for weight and other specifications, he/she at best is careless and indifferent or at worst fraudulent. (If the item originally was a gift from some one else, ask the recipient to weigh it before you bid on it...) If the photographs that accompany the item being sold on Ebay or elsewhere are stock photographs from the official Tiffany & Co. site, you probably should steer clear of it.

There is an old axiom (complete with dangling preposition) that 'you get what you pay for.' It usually is true. If items being sold as 'new' sterling silver items from Tiffany & Co. are half the price of the real article, they probably are LESS than half the weight as well... Why would a factory in China use more silver than necessary to churn out counterfeits that cost them more to make than they will net from the purchase?

Is the 'value' placed on a designer label artificial? Of course it is. Is there any reason why an individual should not be happy with a sterling silver bracelet that is not a designer piece? No, of course not. On the other hand, for any one to use the stamps of a designer on their own pieces and then to offer them as the genuine articles is misrepresentation and fraudulent, even if the actual wording does not constitute legal fraud.

What I find rather loathesome about Ebay currently is the way 'keywords' are allowed that have absolutely no relationship to the article being sold. For example, if a seller has a Tiffany round charm for sale, he/she can use keywords such as 'toggle' and 'Tiffany heart' 'lock' even if the charm is NOT heart-shaped, is NOT a lock' and does not have a 'toggle' clasp! It's a puff, designed to hook the buyer and persuade him/her to look at the item being sold.

Why did I write this post? Well, having done far more research on Tiffany internet sales and counterfeits than I ever wished or expected to perform, I felt I could not waste all that knowledge. Perhaps it can educate potential buyers and help them avoid counterfeits. Knowing human nature, however, it is far more likely that more people will use the links included in this post to access the counterfeit sites to purchase cheap knock-offs than to proceed to the official Tiffany site to purchase a truly genuine item.